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Randalla wrote: ↑Thu Jun 23, 2022 6:55 pm Doing the same on my 620. Have to figure out how to separate the fan clutch and pulley from the water pump. Appears that it is pressed on and though the water pump is junk, I don't want to damage the clutch and pulley.

Typically there's a snout that fits in the backside of the fan clutch mount, and it'll stick. Some light taps on the backside of that clutch and you should see it start to separate.

I can't imagine something being pressed on that's a service item. Fan clutches are cheap, I almost never reuse one.

A few weeks ago I had the brake booster on my 72 240Z fail. I searched for suppliers of new and rebuilt units but came up empty. I did find one advertised as a new 240 unit in North Carolina but when I received it it was for the 260 and later cars. I tried all the local parts stores which showed them in their on line catalogues with either not available or special order. But when I went to the stores they all said they can't get them any longer. I even contacted Cardone that is the supplier for all the big parts stores. They said they don't deal with customers directly but if I go to one the stores and tell them I want to send my unit in for rebuild they should accommodate me. Nope, they all said they couldn't do that either.
Finally I contacted Motorsport Auto as their website shows they will rebuild your unit and send back in 4-5 days. But when I called they said they no longer do that either! All the other Z part sites want to sell you a different unit and have you either drill new holes in the firewall or cut off the studs and weld an adaptor plate on with the correct pattern. Not my first choice.
Finally, I searched Classic Z Car forums and found two companies recommended, Power Brake Exchange and Power Brake Booster Exchange. I contacted both and they both said they still do 240 boosters!. I chose Power Brake Exchange in San Jose, sent the unit off to them and got it back powder coated and rebuilt in about 8 days. Cost was $165 plus shipping to them, return shipping was included. If you run into this issue, keep these two in mind.

Great info. I know the early ones are getting hard to find. I replaced mine a few years ago.

Dale

Over the last year or two the driver side window on my 260 has been getting harder and harder to roll up and down until a couple weeks ago it stopped altogether. I took the door card off and found that the felt sound insulation had come loose and jammed the mechanism and the window channel:


given the amount of rust in the bottom of the door I figured I'd better bite the bullet and do a full recondition of the door. I removed the door and gutted everything out of it. Cleaned and painted every component that would benefit.
Removed all the rust, treated with Eastwood Marine Clean and Metal Ready and coated all rusted areas with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. Then several coats of paint before reassembling the door. Then cleaned and repained the door jamb before rehanging the door. All and all it turned out pretty good. Here's a few before and after pics:




Added Killmat to the doorskin and fresh foam rubber to the intrusion bar where the glass has a tendency to rub against:


Also had to add an additional bump stop to limit downward travel. The old stop allowed the window to go so low the front slide would come out of the guide and hang up. I'd done this to my 240 about 10 years ago and this time was a little easier to get the window adjusted correctly.

The last thing I need to do is figure out a better way to secure the door card to the door. I hate those metal clips, they seem to always tear out of the door card before the come loose from the door. If anyone has any suggestions.....

Very nice through job Bob. Thanks for posting with the pictures.

Looks great.

This thing left me battered, but not beaten.

While taking the greasy differential out about 7 weeks ago, it tumbled off the jack and onto my right hand. Fortunately it only crushed the tip of my thumb.

Even with my thumb in a splint I managed to clean, paint, and reseal the unit, and added an M-factory helical limited slip unit and new carrier bearings "While I was there."

Looks great Carl.

Nicely done!

Great find on the Booster repair!
Be sure to place that info under "Mechanics, paint and body, parts suppliers," ...if you haven't already done so

Doors look much better..good job!