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I had this bracket among zcar parts I had acquired, it's looks to be the same as this bracket from nostalgic ac (nostalgicac.com).
https://nostalgicac.com/pub/media/catal ... 5015_1.jpg

I ended up with the bracket from nostalgic ac also they really are expensive but bolted right up

Okay, for those of you who don't know, here's what I've been doing on Goldie for the last few weeks.

A few months ago I broke 5 of the 6 new ITM pistons I installed not that long ago... Deep sigh...
SO. After anguishing decisions, I had Doc get me custom forged pistons made with custom rings, bought I-beam rods, and had my block bored another .5mm over. It's now at 87mm bore. Automotive Machine of Scottsdale did the bore and surfacing of my block and balanced the rotating mass of crank, pulley, flywheel, and clutch package. The engine is now reassembled and back in the car and running very well. Pictures:
(well, the pics are in reverse order but I'm not doing that again so they'll have to stay that way...)

Very nice. Hopefully this engine will give you better results. I’ve been beating up my Vette at the Goodguys auto cross this weekend .
Had a great time.
A z car with an LS motor took second place.

Just finished swapping out the stock rear axles for new Futofab 108mm CV axles. Had to clearance the lower control arms and the right side sway bar top washer a bit but other than that the install was pretty straightforward. I didn't clearance the left side quite enough the first time and chewed up the pigtails on the inboard safety wire. So had to drop the exhaust again and grind, file and sand more material. Took some real gyrations to do it without removing the CV axle which I really didn't want to do after torqueing all the bolts and learning how to safety wire on my back. I really didn't think the LCA would swing that far up under hard acceleration. Oops! Anyway here's a few pics.

Test fit of the inner adaptor plate showed there was definitely some interference:


But the final install looks pretty good. Don't have to worry about twisting a 50 year old u-joint or snapping the stock axle in two anymore.




Now the weak link is the 4 bolt wheel studs. But I love my Simmons wheels too much to do that swap, never mind the expense!

Wow!

That's awesome! Nice job.

Still fighting rust issues on my wife's 510 wagon project. First was the rot behind the R Fender:


After 5 patch panels, seam sealer and POR-15, got that fixed:


Then while removing surface rust from the Left Wing under the fender found rust all along the bottom surface. Cut all that out, treated with Eastwood Metal Prep, coated with Eastwood inside frame coating, used my Eastwood Stretcher-Shrinker tools and my bench break to fab a single patch panel, welded, seam sealed and POR-15 coated for a nice repair:


Thought I was done but when treating the right wing, found more rust in the same place:


Upon cutting it out, it was worse than the left side!


Gonna have to grind the welds off the gusset plate and remove it to access the area behind it and fab a series of patch panels. The fun never ends.

Very nice work Bob. I know it's a pain but you're doing it the right way.

Ever since I stroked the 350 in my Scarab to 393 I've been hitting 100% duty cycle on the 61 lb/hr injectors in my PowerJection III EFI unit whenever I try to go full 10 psi boost. Not being able to enjoy all the potential of the stroker motor I knew I had to do something. After doing a lot of research I boiled solutions down to 2: 1, Buy a new Holley Super Stealth EFI which comes with 100 lb/hr injectors for about $1500 or; 2, find larger injectors that will fit into my PowerJection III unit.
Besides expense, starting over with a new EFI would entail tuning from scratch which was a huge pain in the rear when I first converted to EFI.
A couple years ago I used AUS Injection in Mesa to rebuild my 61 lbs/hr injectors and they did a great job at a good price. So I called them to see if they could come up with some 100 lb/hr injectors for my application. After providing the specs I had they said they could probably build injectors for me. To be certain I took my unit to them so they could see how tight the injectors fit:




After inspecting the existing unit, they said they could build me 4 95 lb/hr injectors for $360 in a day! And shipped to Payson for free saving me another trip to the valley. The new injectors are the exact same dimensions and use the same harness plug as the old ones so no adaptor harness needed!
I installed the new injectors and upon their advice, I started out with the same tune I used with the old injectors. I first adjusted fuel pressure down to 48 psi from 75 psi. At 48 psi the injectors would push 100 lb/hr, what I calculated I needed to stay under 90% duty cycle at 10 psi boost. The car started and idled, albeit a little rough, on the first try. A little adjusting of the throttle plates and idle IPW to get the IAC down below 10 and I had a pretty smooth idle. Played with the throttle off idle for a while to see how it was learning, made a few adjustments to smooth that out and hit the road.
I drove around the neighborhood letting it learn a little more, made corrections to the fuel table before taking it out on the highway where I made several passes with a little more throttle, a little more boost, making adjustments to the fuel table based on the learning table after each pass. Way smoother, no hesitation, so far so good. I'll continue this cycle until I get the nerve to do full throttle full boost passes but I'm really happy with the new injectors.
If I find I'm exceeding 90% duty cycle, I'll increase the fuel pressure according to a curve I created from the injector specs to add another 10 lb/hr until I get to the right level. That'll require re-tuning but I'm feeling pretty comfortable doing that now.
If you need injector work, I can highly recommend AUS Injectors, they know their stuff.