desertdatsuns.net

Really looks great and you have the battle scars to prove it.

Haven't posted any progress on the 510 since 9/22 but finally got all my other projects out of the way!
After cutting out all the rust in the inner fender I could reach without removing the gusset plate last September, I finally removed the gusset and finished rust removal, patching and coating with Eastwood rust encapsulator:



Then fabricated and fitted three patch panels:



And welded the patch panels and gusset in place:



Just have to apply seam sealer and POR15 to complete the repair.
Next, rehab the passenger door I took off the get to the gusset plate

Nice work Bob! Looks great.

Dale

My Z has been running great since I woke it up a month ago. The last few days, however, it has been starting hard and felt like it was losing fuel pressure overnight. It also developed a new smell underhood. On top of that, the other night when I pulled in the garage, I noticed a slight belt squeal with the headlights on.

I took a quick look a few days ago for any signs of fuel leaks, but there was nothing obvious. Today, I dedicated some time to the car and found that the V belt was failing, so I replaced that to fix the squeal and future failure. I then found the source of the fuel issues. The supply hose between the chassis line and the fuel filter was leaking at both ends. A quick hose swap and all should be good again.

Always check your fuel hoses and belts! Luckily, I found mine before I was left stranded or worse.

Don't you love it when the fix is that easy Good job diagnosing.

Replaced the steering rack boots and greased the fittings on the front end of the 240Z yesterday. The old boots were torn on both sides. Did my best to count threads and mark the tie rods with paint, but alas I still will need a front end alignment. Tried the easier way of installing the new boots by not disconnecting the tie rods at the ball joints. Instead I loosened the tie rod jam nuts and turned the inner tie rods to disconnect the outer tie rods from the steering rack. So much easier, and no risk of ruining the rubber grease boots on the ball joints. It was then easy to slip the new boots over the large flange on the steering rack and push the inner tie rod end through.

Just align it with a tape measure. I've done this many times on both my race Z and my street Z.

Saw a neat tool you can easily make for doing this on Instagram. Uses 2 pieces of angle iron (maybe 24" long) with holes that can be bolted to the wheel studs. Then you can easily/accurately measure from one side of car to the other. Think I'll make a set which is way cheaper than an alignment these days.

Randy, I have one of these if you want to borrow it.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway ... 6KEALw_wcB

Dale

Thank you for the offer Dale. I went ahead and made a pair of alignment tools and currently have them affixed to both front wheel studs so I can accurately measure toe angle. Since my steering wheel was perfectly straight prior to disconnecting the inner tie rod ends, I'm assuming setting the steering wheel straight is where I should start before adjusting the toe, correct??? I don't know the actual spec for toe in on a 240Z but I do know I need just a slight amount. Does it make sense to have the measurement about 1/8" different front to back, more or less??? Thanks guys.